Rooted In Genes: A Grounded Denim Collection
By Emilie McCarthy
Excited to be a part of something special, I made my way via train to Temple University’s Student Center, donning my custom denim patchwork skirt made by Nick Kreutzer (@nwkreutzer) for Authenticity’s previous show. When I got dressed that morning, I scrounged around my closet slightly anxiously. I don’t own much denim, and beyond the “wear denim” brief, I didn’t know what else to expect! Not wanting to don mom jeans to such a thoughtful presentation, I finally picked a casual yet chic outfit, and prepared myself to be impressed by a collection of fashionistas. But what I found was so much more: an amazing story rooted in the history of denim, weaving heritage and intention into the designer’s showstopping designs.
Photo Credit: Emilie McCarthy (@lil_miss_emi)
The Inspiration
Upon arrival, I was greeted backstage by a bustling scene of models in their element, getting their makeup done, putting on outfits, and vibing to music. R&B played from a speaker and chatter of various media press lingered in the air while everyone assembled their cameras. The energy was electric, designers and MUA’s alike in their flow states.
I grabbed a front row seat and settled in to read about the historical creative inspiration of the Rooted in Genes fashion show. The audience pamphlet is meticulously and beautifully designed, as seen below:
Creative director Zora hopped on a call with me and gave Authenticity an exclusive statement on the inspiration for Solar Flair’s Rooted in Genes show:
“Our biggest inspiration was denim’s black history. The initial vision was denim’s history and where the iconic blue color comes from. There’s a resistance dyeing technique in West Africa for indigo fabric using the indigo plant creating a strong natural blue dye. Eventually during the trans-atlantic slave trade this technique was brought to the Americas which resulted in the plant being used to dye denim there. In addition, in the early to mid 1800’s denim gained the nickname ‘negro cloth’ because a lot of slave owners appreciated it for it’s durability, and they would distribute it to enslaved people to wear. Eventually, after emancipation it became more normalized for the general blue-collar class to wear, and became a symbol of the working class. Fast forward to the 60’s, MLK’s infamous march on Washington, many protestors intentionally wore blue jeans to display solidarity with sharecroppers in the South at the time and their connected struggle. So, Cierra and I thought it was amazing to see how much of a staple denim has become throughout fashion history, everything from hip hop to rock and roll. “
Photo Credit: Alana Palmer (@alanamoriah.digital) Center: Randi Lane (@r_andilane)
Absorbing everything I’d just read in the pamphlet, I looked up to find that all the seats had been filled and after a brief wait, the lights dimmed and the crowd got quiet. Two girls made their way to sit center stage and perform a hand game similar to Pat-A-Cake while chanting in tandem. From what I could hear from my seat, the song had to do with their ancestors. Everyone listened intently, and then they left just as quickly as they arrived.
Next to the stage was a student-run Temple club, called the Geography, Environmental, and Urban Studies Group (GenUS). Accompanied by another well thought out powerpoint, the two club members delved deeper into the show’s pamphlet, which genuinely educated me on the history of Indigo, denim, and the Trans-Atlantic slave trade. The club also touched on the environmental impact of the denim and indigo trade.
The Strength of Genes
Next, a short film was shown. In it, we see several young black people standing in front of two clotheslines, hung on them are blue jeans, shorts, and skirts. The scene seems color-graded to imply fall, and overtop the scene plays an uptempo beat. The individuals stare at the camera intently- speaking without a single word being spoken.
Short Film By: @e.shieldsphotography
Passion & Enthusiasm
With all the buildup, I was excited to finally see the three designer’s collections (@yvonnefieldz, @retrowavebrand, @atoarchive). The crowd was buzzing and the show did not disappoint. Each collection used denim in such an out-of-the-box way, you could truly tell the designers worked long and hard to follow the brief in their own styles. And the models walked. Each brought their fierce runway walks, sauntering up and down in denim bodices, anime-style jean cuts, and even jean inspired socks and hats.
Designer Yvonne Fieldz (pictured above by @ella_troiano with models @_.nilovely, therealbaybeegurl____, mxdget) absolutely ate down, what I appreciated most about her designs are the fitted bodices. Each top stood out to me because they were all different but all supplied lift and fit that compliments each model’s shape in such a thoughtful way. Additionally, the fur mixed with denim on the cropped jacket works so well and is something I’ve never seen before!
The energy of the crowd could also not be understated. Even with a soundtrack technical issue, we began to chant and clap to keep tempo for the models. There was such a loving and supportive vibe to the entire night, with friends and family wearing their denim-inspired outfits as well. Jean jackets, skirts, and even jean-suits spotted the crowd.
The designers all stuck to a theme, but the fact the audience all came together and dressed to theme to support their loved ones and this creative space was really something touching for me to experience. At the end of the day, the fashion industry is fueled by people, and the people who love and show up to support them.
Photo Credit: @ella_troiano
One other thing I loved and noticed across designers is how they accessorized, even within the restrictions of upcycled denim. Every designer’s footwear choices were complimentary to the overall outfit and I loved the hat choices specifically that helped to bring each ensemble together as seen above (@dante_inferno3 and @hi.crystall wearing @atoarchive).
Photo Credit: Randi Lane (@r_andilane)
Power & Gratitude
From the very first powerpoint slide (which was leaves of a tree), to the pamphlet and short film, the Solar Flair Rooted In Genes show was powerful. It was well planned, thought out, and executed. In an era of fast fashion and whitewashing of fashion history, shows like these are important for the future of fashion culture. The brief that started this show was “envisioning the future of solar punk fashion” which was perfectly encapsulated by all the designer's collections. Upcycling denim, honoring its history, and turning towards the future via fully sustainable couture is a major feat.
On the left, a design by @retrowavebrand, on the left pant leg it reads “Change is inevitable, growth is optional.”
Photo Credit: @ella_troiano & Randi Lane (@r_andilane)
We can’t forget our roots- and for designers Yvone, Ikenna, and Benji, they’ve managed to elevate their stories and heritage while keeping the focus on upcycling & experimentation.
A very warm congratulations to the designers, and thank you for having me!
Photo Credit: Randi Lane (@r_andilane)
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